July sets the sun ablaze in Svaneti. The great luminary emerging from the mountains finds its shelter there at night. It cannot defeat the frost, except  for a short while in summer, when the snow melts and rivers roar down the valleys. But for the snow-capped mountains this is of no consequence. The snow never melts there, the silvery whiteness of the mountains is in no danger. Svaneti remains remote, inaccessible, splendid.

This land keeps you constantly amazed, it strikes your heart-strings. Its marvellous heights and landscapes unfold as you take a narrow and winding mountain path. The mountains of Svaneti soothe your worries and oppose indifference. You no longer feel any cold in these snowy mountains – you are an enchanted captive of Svaneti.

Svanetians call themselves “mushvan”, the name for their country being “shvan”. According to the Georgian annals, the word “Svaneti” is derived from “savane” meaning a cloister, which is an apt comparison.

Svaneti is located in the southern part of the Caucasus. These giant peaks - stern Ushba, steep Shkhelda and treacherous Shkhara (5,058 m) give birth to  the Enguri which along with the Tskhenistskali brings water not only to Svaneti, but to the entire territory of Georgia.

Svanetians distinguish themselves according to whether they are from  the Upper or Lower Svaneti. Svanetians from the upper regions are proud of Mestia. The star of lower Svaneti is Lentekhi. The fascinating village of Ushguli lies at an altitude of 2,200 metres above the sea level. It is one of the highest populated areas in Europe.

Images of the magnificent and remarkable towers are emblazoned in the mind of anyone who has ever visited Mestia. Tower dwellings constitute an integral part of the Svanetian  household.

As you look at the lofty Svanetian towers, it may occur to you that not only in England is a man’s home his castle. Svanetian homes are castles for resisting the enemy or welcoming guests. It is here that one can join the genuine Georgian dancing, hear the ancient sun chant Lileo and try a delicious Svanetian kubdari -  its truly authentic taste can only be experienced in Svaneti. If you happen to visit Svaneti during a festival ( there are about 160 religious festivals a year in this part of the country) the memories of beautiful rituals and customs will remain with you for a long time.

Reserved Svanetians will welcome you quietly, there will be no fuss. They may not spare many words, but you will surely get a better tribute - the warmth of their hearts - and perhaps a famous Svanetian hat.

The routes to Svaneti have always been a problem. According to a Svanetian proverb, “Roads and water are everyone’s lot” and that is the way it has been for centuries. The main road started in Ushguli , followed the Enguri valley toward Samegrelo. This road was used by Roman merchants and by the local population to transport honey, wax, leather, gold and silver to other parts of Georgia.

Svanetians have never been particularly wealthy. Nature is the main asset of this land. Leaf-bearing and coniferous forests, alpine meadows, rivers boiling with trout, game, the mineral waters of Moasha and Ifara, marble and coloured stone - all are found in Svaneti.

There are numerous legends of old  Svaneti preserved by the collective popular mentality. According to one of these, Svaneti used to be rich in gold ore. Gold would be extracted from the sands of the Enguri and its tributaries. Strabo also noted, “ Roaring waters of Svanetian rivers carry gold. Svanetians wash the sand in draining boards and sheep skins.”  The myth of the Golden Fleece may be based on these legends. Goldsmiths  were so highly valued that if one were murdered, the penalty was twice as harsh.

Svanetians used to demonstrate their courage not only in wars. Hunting in any kind of weather - impassable snow and ice - is their traditional pursuit.  Svanetian hunters developed a very unique, rich hunting terminology.

Despite the fact that Svanetians profess the Christian religion and the churches of St. Kvirike and St. Ivlit in Kala are sacred places of worship for them, their lifestyle and traditions still bear elements of paganism. A Svanetian would never start his journey without getting the prior consent of the head of his household. It was imperative to set out only on a Wednesday. One of the traditional items used by a travelling Svanetian was a wooden stick with an iron point. It was called a Mujiri and reflected the conviction that as the old Svan proverb goes, “On the road a stick is a friend.”

Even a mourning ceremony is very distinctive in Svaneti. The traditional chants performed by men provokes one to tears and makes a tremendous and unforgettable impression.

The strongest Svanetian tradition is the respect and awe with which a  Makhvshi, the eldest member of the community, is regarded. The Makhvshi  is a symbol of pride and wit, justice and  fairness,  unity and power - a true symbol of a Georgian spirit.

To Georgians, the Svanetian has always personified pride and persistence. Vittorio Sella, a famous Italian mountaineer and photographer of the 19th century, spent considerable time exploring the wonders of Svaneti. Photographs taken during his travels there reveal the people who have also been influenced by their natural environment.  They are tall like their mountains and their eyes are as blue as the Svanetian sky.  Vittorio Sella travelled to Svaneti and Racha three times and mounted 30 peaks. He compiled a valuable material on Georgia. His photographs were exhibited in London in 1890 and received the highest award by the Royal Geographic Society.

The snow in Svaneti begins to melt only in May. September brings the snow back. Today Svaneti’s major problem is the same as centuries ago - poor roads and transportation. Besides, the many difficulties confronting Georgia today are especially dire in the high mountainous regions. For all of these reasons life in Svaneti is extremely hard these days.

Of course, all problems cannot be solved overnight. Yet we must make sure that this reserved country, the pearl and pride of Georgia, does not remain overlooked and neglected because it may never utter a word of complaint.